Ulysse Nardin Diver Chronograph 44 mm
Ulysses Nardin is probably one of the most legendary traditional watchmakers in its distant and recent history. The company had produced nautical chronometers necessary for ship navigation (including the US Navy) before electronic timekeeping and communication tools, and more recently, it was the beloved creative space of the late Rolf Schnyder (d. 2011), who began in the 1980s , Ulysse Nardin has become one of the most interesting and dynamic luxury Swiss watchmakers of modern times. Following his death, the Swiss-based company Le Locle was acquired by luxury brand Kering (which also owns the likes of Gucci and Girard-Perregaux), and now, under Patrick Pruniaux, is developing a An updated personality that combines the fine tradition of watchmakers with a sustainable business model suitable for a global audience. It's absolutely fascinating to see the trajectory Ulysse Nardin has taken in some of its more exotic offerings over the past few years. That said, it also has more conservative everyday wear luxury sports watches that are a staple that watch lovers tend to favor today. Let's take a look at the simply named Ulysse Nardin Diver Chronograph 44mm, reviewed here with reference 1503-170-3/92 in titanium and black dial. Luxury sports watches for everyday wear are a staple that watch lovers tend to favor today. Let's take a look at the simply named Ulysse Nardin Diver Chronograph 44mm, reviewed here with reference 1503-170-3/92 in titanium and black dial. Luxury sports watches for everyday wear are a staple that watch lovers tend to favor today. Let's take a look at the simply named Ulysse Nardin Diver Chronograph 44mm, reviewed here with reference 1503-170-3/92 in titanium and black dial.
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Those familiar with Ulysse Nardin will recognize the basic shape and theme of this watch as part of Ulysse Nardin's larger "Ocean" collection. The term is now used for products from other brands, and diving chronographs have been given a simple, perhaps overly direct name. What I really like about the Diver Chronograph is that it's more focused on being a high-performance tool than a luxury watch that "looks at me" - although it does have some unique visual characteristics. The “tool watch” approach works because it means that, from most perspectives, everything about the Diver Chronograph is functional and purposeful.
The case itself is made of very fine titanium and is 44mm wide and about 15mm thick, with a lug-to-lug distance of about 50mm. This makes this piece bold on the wrist, but I never felt it was bigger than it needed to be, and it's very comfortable to wear in the rubber strap. I also like that Ulysse Nardin opted for a simple strap with a traditional pin buckle. The lower strap of course has metal "links" which are part of the Ulysse Nardin brand's DNA, but otherwise this is a very discreet and comfortable strap. This is in stark contrast to some watches at this price point, which sometimes use complicated and often bulky deploying clasps. Many of these can be fun, but in my opinion, they usually have more fuss and size than they offer in terms of everyday comfort and practicality.
Above the dial is a domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflection coating on both sides. The dial is designed for legibility, with polished hands and indexes with just a hint of glitz. Ulysse Nardin makes sure to keep the dial practical with a matte textured dial and easy-to-see chronograph hands. (Note that both the chronograph and main hands provide light for dark viewing.) Dial symmetry is ideal, even though the date balances within its own circular window, just above the 6 o'clock hour marker. Dial text is minimized and subtly integrated into places such as the outer seconds scale or the chronograph sub-dial. At first, the Diver Chronograph dial may seem simple, but its refined nature allows it to grow on you after wearing it on your wrist for a while.
Surrounding the dial is a smooth rotating bezel with a pleasing click, the design again taking inspiration from the traditional Athenian nautical watch, but also doing something new. In addition to the design of the case itself, the bezel of the Diver Chronograph also gives this Ulysse Nardin watch its visual uniqueness. The chronograph buttons are screwed in, which is a bit retro in my opinion. While this is a proven and true way to get more water resistance in a diver's chronograph, I would like to see brands move in the direction of chronograph complications that don't require screw-in pushers or can even be fully water-operated down (probably not as low as 300 meters, but at least 50 or 100 meters). On the left side of the watch is a small metal plate with the serial number of the watch. This area is used for limited edition numbers such as the U.S.-only limited edition red, white and blue "Hammerhead" reference 1503-170LE-3/93-HAMMER edition of the Diver Chronograph.
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Inside the watch is a fantastic movement, Ulysse Nardin caliber UN-150 made in-house. The movement, which debuted around 2013, is the brand's premium automatic 12-hour chronograph movement. The UN-150 is beautiful in appearance, operates at 4Hz (28,800 bpm) and has a power reserve of 48 hours. The 322-part movement is individually tuned for performance at Ulysse Nardin and also benefits from a silicon escapement for increased timekeeping performance. Flip the watch over to see the UN-150 movement through the caseback, which helps add an impressive look to this luxury sports watch.
The titanium case makes the watch feel really light on the wrist, which is a good thing. Ulysse Nardin also comes with a full 18k rose gold reference 1502-170-3/93) version of the Diver Chronograph 44mm, which is almost four times the price of this titanium model ($38,500) – with the extra gold weight power on. It's a great option for those who want to go swimming with a gold watch, but as a tool, I'm not sure gold is the best option - so, my choice is titanium. I think the real value of the Diver Chronograph is a timepiece for everyday wear or when you want to submerge yourself in water.
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